La Vaca Negra

Illy coffee? Check. Coffee cocktails? Check. Pet-Friendly? Check!!! If you need me, you know where I'll be.

By day...

Or by night...

Hot & cold in the same glass!

Cocktail with Cointreau and vodka

Complete with coffee art. Come. on.

La Vaca Negra is on Bajada Sargento Cabral. It usually looks like this because I'm always there:

Ice Cream Festival & More Love For San Remo

This past weekend was the first annual artesian ice cream festival in Rosario. Fitting for the Argentine city with the highest ice cream production per citizen -- there are around 70 ice cream factories for Rosarinos who consume between 8 and 9 liters annually. And perhaps more impressive is the quality of Rosario's ice cream, which is actually more like Italian gelato - with impressive creaminess and flavor.

And so, over 30 heladerías participated in the festival, which was postponed a week due to rain. You had to buy tickets for scoops - this year it was 5 pesos per scoop - and then you went around getting scoops from your favorite brands. It was super fun but it was also a 'get in and get out' kind of event. Thus, no photos.

This longest line was for Gelateria Italiana San Remo (the San Remo with locations on Buenos Aires and on Pte. Peron, which I blogged about here).

What's really impressive are their unconventional flavors like Tomato Jam swirl, Roquefort and an assortment of floral flavors. Since the line was so long at the festival, we went to their shop on Buenos Aires and brought home a kilo of gustos!

Clockwise from the center (12 o'clock): Dulce de leche granizado, Mascarpone with berries, Rose, Tomato jam swirl, Roquefort with walnuts. And there are plenty of other flavors left to try. San Remo is also cheaper than some of the larger chains. 

Advances in Graffiti!

Just about 6 months ago I was lamenting the lack of quality graffiti in Rosario. There were plenty of spray painted scribbles and an obscene amount of walls, poles and anything else that could be slapped with paint completely covered with the colors of the city's two rival football teams -- but not a lot of street art. But now, it's getting interesting...

Dorrego entre San Juan y Mendoza

Dorrego entre San Juan y Mendoza

3 de Febrero entre España y Italia

Parque España -- CEC

Moreno entre Cochabamba y Pasco

Boulevard Oroño entre Montevideo y Zeballos

...and I like it!

Crepes in Rosario!

So there's this block that I've mentioned before because of a spacious Starbucks and my favorite pizzeria. I want to move to this block because now it's also home to Rosario's first creperie, Manjula Crepes.

They've got a full menu of both savory and sweet crepes so you can have a full crepe meal! Of course, I'm partial to anything with Nutella. And they have waffles too!

Manjula has a casual atmosphere and you order at the counter, something that's actually quite unusual here. They also have a patio to the side with those outdoor heater things. And the patio is dog-friendly!

The creperie is named after the character (Apu's wife) on the Simpsons -- and the same owners also have a shawarma/falafel place called Apu's. How sweet...and savory!

Find Manjula at Tucuman 1216, along with all the rest of my favorite spots on the block. Just ignore that giant gym on the corner ;)

Doppio Zero

UPDATE JULY 2013: Sadly, this place is no longer on my favorites list. It's gotten progressively worse and the last 2 times I went, there were problems (raw gnocchi, wrong orders) with the food and everyone had to eat/wait for others to eat at different times. The worst part is that the manager seems completely indifferent and wants you to pay full price for your late dish without bothering to apologize or even talk with you. None of the original managers or waiters are there today. I can get over mistaken orders, but their attitudes have now ruined several attempts to enjoy a night out with good food.

We first found this restaurant in Funes and were super happy excited to learn that a Doppio Zero just opened in Rosario, too!

There's a full menu of Italian fare - from aperitifs to bruschetta, pizza, pasta and desserts!

 

And there are desserts with Nutella, oh, yes.

Doppio Zero

Tucumán 1281, Rosario!

The Secret Starbucks

Another Starbucks quietly opened recently in Rosario - so quietly, in fact, that the address isn't even listed on their website yet and I've seen no advertising for it. It's a big, sunny store on Tucuman (and almost Mitre). Let's meet for coffee soon!

According to this article, they're also opening one on Cordoba and Oroño soon. None of the stores are selling iced coffee (as in cold drip coffee) but said they might if enough people ask for it. Go! Ask! I can't afford to keep getting those damn frappuccinos!

Starbucks? Yes, Starbucks!

In case you missed it on Facebook, I'm all smiles this weekend because we finally got a Starbucks in Rosario and I'm well-caffinated. The prices are as ridiculous as you'd imagine: 14-20 pesos for lattes and cappuccinos. But, if you think about it, a tall is way bigger than most coffee drinks you'll find around town and you might just wonder who in Rosario can even fathom finishing a venti. I ordered a latte and was shocked that it came with whipped cream -- which I'd nearly forgotten about -- and I didn't even have to say 'with whip.' Hmm. I wonder how I order it without whip. Sin crema? And just in case you're afraid that you won't get your money's worth, this Starbucks experience comes complete with fake American niceties...Have a Nice Day! :) Oh, how I missed that.

They've got most of what you'd expect to find in their pastry case (including bagels and muffins) and they've somehow managed to import bottled tazo teas and Altoids. Maybe you think that Starbucks is over-rated or the epitome of capitalism, but if you've spent the last few years drinking the exact same coffee in every "cafe" by the thimbleful, you're likely as excited as I am. This is better than Christmas.

Starbucks is now open at Alto Rosario, and I heard a rumor that they're opening two other stores soon - one on Orono and another on Cordoba.

Nutrísimo

Because after a season full of patriotic holidays and fatty foods, I need a break. Nutrísimo is a vegetarian take out/delivery joint with nutrient rich meals and snacks, and they're pretty yummy. Above is a big alfajor (7 pesos), with an amazing strawberry filling, that's covered in a thin layer of white chocolate and a sprinkling of semillas de lino (I forget what they're called in English but they're super good for you). And below is half of a serving of leek and tofu pie (14 pesos) and a piece of soy milanesa roll (30 pesos), which comes with brown rice and beets.

They also sell whole grain pastas, risottos, waffles, medialunas, empanadas, and some amazing looking multigrain bread that I've been meaning to try.

Nutísimo
9 de Julio 1451
Rosario

The Passion of The Soap

Before you rush home for Christmas/New Year/Whatnot you'll have to pick up some souvenirs from your beloved Argentina. Dulce de leche and Malbec are soooo overdone. I thought I would dedicate a few posts to Argentine souvenirs. 

I really love the soap from La Pasionaria (and no, they're not paying me to say so...though they should since I buy so much of it). And, they have several Argentine-themed soaps - perfect souvenirs!

Here's one from the Patriotic Scents line (which includes the three flowers considered in the contest for the national flower). The orange one (pictured below) is not the winner but is my favorite and is actually la passionaria.

And instead of taking home a tub of dulce de leche (which you can actually buy in the states), you can take an easy-to-pack bar of dulce de leche scented soap, which is oh so much easier for packing.

And in case you want to pass along Argentina's signature drink but don't want to have to smuggle all the gear and a package of yerba home, here's Yerba Mate soap! (Look - it even explains what it is in English on the package).

Wow, it seems that I have confessed my love for this exclusively Argentine brand but I couldn't help but get carried away - the soaps were just so photogenic. The shops are in various locations around the country and there are several in Rosario including a kiosk in both malls. Most soaps are sold in sets of three in addition in individual bars. There's a three-pack of red wine scents too. ¡Salud!

Scenes from el Circuito

I suppose if I'm gonna eat like a champ, I need to exercise like one too. Luckily, the city of Rosario has come up with a brilliant initiative for recreation: Cambiá el aire! Calle Recerativa.

On Sundays from 8am to 1pm 13km of streets are closed to traffic so that bikers, skaters, runners and walkers can enjoy without fear of getting run down by cars. Yay! I don't have to be afraid anymore :)

Rosario's Own Wee Britain! (kind of)

Once upon a time, the English came to Rosario to build and operate a railroad. And while they were at it, they built a tiny village within 2 oddly shaped blocks. Strangely, I didn't even notice it until recently - it's next to Shopping Alto and and Parque Scalabrini Ortiz. I'm not telling you this because I want you to go there, though - it's not a tourist attraction. It's referred to as Barrio Ingles - Batten Cottage (or what's left of it). It seems like an ironic cross between a Disney village and a ghetto.

La Capital did a short article on it 2 years ago, when it was around 120 years old. From what I can tell, Peron nationalized the railways in 1948 so the Brits have been gone for a while. It seems that it's now controlled (or not) by a federal agency - ONABE - which is something like a department of public assets, among other things. According to the article, some residents are paying 120 pesos a month to become eventual owners. Who knows how long that takes, or how someone gets in on that deal. But it's obvious that some residents sincerely care about the upkeep and preservation of their 'houses' and others are likely on government support. One neighbor admits that Batten Cottage lacks unity among residents and others complain about the lack of municipal support. Clearly, community block associations aren't a thing in Argentina. But the fact that it's under the auspices of the Argentine government pretty much explains what's going on here.

Here's a crappy part...

Yeah, that's a horse pulling a garbage cart - belonging to the people who dumpster dive.

And here's a lovely part...

So whether you're looking for a place to park your garbage horse or a picket fence, Wee Britain has it all!

Amelie Petit Cafe

Here's a glimpse into an adorable cafe in my favorite part of town...

Desayuno is AR 7.50

San Lorenzo 734 (the block where the street begins) across the street from Museo Estevez.